Clearing brush-strategies

[Chris Porter]

So, I'm wondering how to go about making a 30 foot radius clearing in a forest of young and middle aged trees. That is, how to find a center (I'm thinking triangulate with compass?), then how to mark edge of clearing, or just clear circularly from the center? Any ideas? I'm thinking of buying property, but would have to clear it myself. I have a variety of options, but on a fully wooded lot, it's not clear to me how to start a clearing in the first place. I have to have a clearing, and a driveway. Would putting in the driveway be the first step? How would one "aim" the driveway to the desired position of the clearing?

[Master Taran]

Get thy self a GPS.

[Chris Porter]

Hm. Let's assume the property is a single acre (a bit smaller than a football field). Would a gps still be a good idea? Would one of those things you stick in a car and it gives you direction work?

eta: it's a large lot, a small forest. It's completely covered in trees, small and medium size. You cannot see far into the interior.

[godfry n. glad]

Wait, wait, wait...

What kind of trees and where this is makes a difference.

I don't know about there is Wisconsin, but here in the specific nerdfest, we have a lot of trees which are relatively shallow rooted. It's only after years of destruction that local developers have been clued to the fact that leaving just a few Douglas firs, as "aesthetic anchors", is to invite disaster. These trees use their natural tendency to group in clumps to protect themselves from all but the worst blowdown. Remove that tight group and they will fall down with considerably less wind.

Likewise, because red oaks have such wide root shadows, when you think you're clearing just thirty feet in diameter, you're actually clearing a 70 foot circumference....possibly denuding your whole lot, depending.

Find out what kind of trees and how they will respond to clearing portions or parts of forested areas.

Also, make sure your circumference is big enough so that if forest fire is a likelihood, that you have a relatively safe distance and relatively fireproof roofing.

[ChuckF]

How big are these trees? Is the lumber of any value? If so, you may be able to hire someone to come in and clear it for you. They'll take the lumber they can sell and mulch the rest. You may wind up making money, or may have to pay a little.

[godfry n. glad]

And what Chuck said. That's how I got rid of my dead Japanese maple. :(

[ChuckF]

godfry is wise.

I think MT's suggestion is a great one. You can probably rent a GPS unit pretty cheaply, and mark the individual trees along the circumference of your clearing.

[Chris Porter]

Wait, wait, wait...

What kind of trees and where this is makes a difference. Then we have a problem, I'm appallingly bad at identifying trees. I can see (I've taken some photos of the lot) that there are a few maple and a bit of oak, and some fir trees of some kind. And many saplings I can't id, and it's a time without leaves so I can't tell. I believe this lot is a remnent of a farm field from years ago, that grew overgrown. The land is flat, and most of the trees are less than 2 inches in diameter, with some being 5-6 inches, maybe a bit more.

I don't know about there is Wisconsin, but here in the specific nerdfest, we have a lot of trees which are relatively shallow rooted. It's only after years of destruction that local developers have been clued to the fact that leaving just a few Douglas firs, as "aesthetic anchors", is to invite disaster. These trees use their natural tendency to group in clumps to protect themselves from all but the worst blowdown. Remove that tight group and they will fall down with considerably less wind.

Likewise, because red oaks have such wide root shadows, when you think you're clearing just thirty feet in diameter, you're actually clearing a 70 foot circumference....possibly denuding your whole lot, depending.
Yes, I would wish to avoid that, since the charm of the lot is the ability of the trees to be isolating.

Find out what kind of trees and how they will respond to clearing portions or parts of forested areas.

Also, make sure your circumference is big enough so that if forest fire is a likelihood, that you have a relatively safe distance and relatively fireproof roofing. And that trees wouldn't fall on the house I'm thinking of building. Yes, good point.

How big are these trees? Is the lumber of any value? Small, of no value If so, you may be able to hire someone to come in and clear it for you. They'll take the lumber they can sell and mulch the rest. You may wind up making money, or may have to pay a little.
Would be nice, but unrealistic. I think the cheapness of the site is because it's covered in mostly trash trees. Could rent a bulldozer for a day, and that's sort of why I would want to have a plan laid out so as to be effective in using it. Or, given some time*, I might be able to clear by hand, but would still need a plan of attack. Knowing what sort of trees they are is a good idea. Shallow roots would be nice.
godfry is wise.

I think MT's suggestion is a great one. You can probably rent a GPS unit pretty cheaply, and mark the individual trees along the circumference of your clearing.Excellent, thank you, something I hadn't thought about.

* a year of summer and fall weekends? I might be able to clear and clean a square yard a weekend, and that should give me plenty of time.

[godfry n. glad]

Kewl. You don't have mature enough trees to concern yourself with, except in the longer term, like twenty years down the line.

Were I in your position, I'd do a walk through and pick out the biggest in the area you're going to clear, fall them, limb them, then cut and save (or sell) it for firewood.

Then, rent yourself a bulldozer....

http://www.lukefurse.co.uk/photos/bulldozer_400.jpg

like this Catepillar D4 (a D9, their biggest, would be overkill) to push all the shrubbery into a pile in the center of the area and consult your local fire district about burn permits, or regulations on burning slash. Torch the bulldozed slash when permitted.

That's the quickest way I know.

After you've completed whatever you intend to do with the cleared area, you can selectively cut out the remaining trees so that you have sun where you want or need sun, and shade where you want and need shade, or clear thoroughfares or other usage areas.

[Angakuk]

My suggestion is that, before you do anything else, you contact your local Extension Office for advice. Here is a link to the University of Wisconsin Woodland Assistance Program (http://basineducation.uwex.edu/woodland/manage/part1/assist.htm).

[Chris Porter]

Thanks, Angakuk. I've already started to gather web information about things relating to land ownership, I will add this too. That picture sort of looks about like the property, only less dense. My plans are only in the "if I buy this property" stage, but because of the vegetation, it's something I really have to think hard about. I like where I'm living now, don't really want to look elsewhere, but the land prices here are high. I'm thinking this property is cheap because it's a corner property (more taxes to be paid on it), and because it needs extensive labor and cost to build on.

This is a place that might help me figure out what to do with the cut down saplings, too. Which has been weighing on my mind; once clear, what to do with the debris?

[ChuckF]

I'm thinking this property is cheap because it's a corner property (more taxes to be paid on it), and because it needs extensive labor and cost to build on.
Does it perc?

[Chris Porter]

You are such a tease. I have no idea if it percs or not, and my googling was insufficiently fu. I did find out just now it's not located in a flood area, so I'm relieved of that issue. Are you asking whether or not a sump tank test has been run? Doesn't need one, sewer line runs along side plot. Will need well water, however.

Still, all this not yet an issue, still working with bank to see if they are interested in financing. But I figured that I will need some sort of plan to tackle brush issues on most of the properties I would be interested in looking at.

[godfry n. glad]

Maybe I'm not clear on your end objective.

I understood it to be a residential house in the midst of a small wood. On about an acre of land. It has sewerage, but no water? How is that possible?

This "corner lot"...curbed? ...sidewalks? Is there a curb cut for a drive? What about utilities?

Angakuk's suggestion is good...your extension service can be an inexpensive (free, or nearly so) source of good advice.

[ChuckF]

Ah, ok. If it has a sewer line then it doesn't need a perc test. I was just asking because if it's an old farm field, it probably hasn't been built on. If it's cheap it could also be because it doesn't pass the local code for a septic tank. But if it's tied into the sewer system it doesn't matter.

[Chris Porter]

Maybe I'm not clear on your end objective.

I understood it to be a residential house in the midst of a small wood. On about an acre of land. It has sewerage, but no water? yup. How is that possible?

Er. Good question. But that's what I know. I admit to being a bit perplexed by land and property advertising, not knowing all the terms and what they mean. Here's the property:

Wisconsin Homes. Houses for sale in Wisconsin. Milwaukee Real Estate for sale. (http://www.wihomes.com/property/property.asp?Broker=&PRM_MLSNumber=0907707&PRM_MlsName=MetroMLSVOW)
No sidewalks. It's about, say, 3/4 a football field.

If it's still for sale by the end of the year, I may go for it. Or perhaps I will find something else. In any event, I would likely need a plan on how to clear wild shrub and trees, something I've never done. I've put up fences, sheds, built furniture, wired electricity, did a bit of plumbing, but clearing land is not something I'm at all familiar with.


This "corner lot"...curbed? ...sidewalks? Is there a curb cut for a drive? What about utilities?

Angakuk's suggestion is good...your extension service can be an inexpensive (free, or nearly so) source of good advice.

[Chris Porter]

Ah, ok. If it has a sewer line then it doesn't need a perc test. I was just asking because if it's an old farm field, it probably hasn't been built on. If it's cheap it could also be because it doesn't pass the local code for a septic tank. But if it's tied into the sewer system it doesn't matter.

OK. I meant septic tank, not sump tank. I've read up on these, and I know it would need to be done if necessary.

[ceptimus]

A GPS may not work in in a forest, unless you climb the trees.

If the trees are only young, and the GPS is a good one, it may work though. :shrug: